Mar 31 2009
ADDC Day 2
We meant to wake up in time to catch the all-day bus tour, honestly we did. But the next thing we knew there was a knock at the door and a voice, all jasmine and sing-song, the Phillipino cleaner.
“Gute morneeng? Housekeepeeng?”
“We’re all still in bed.”
Silence, then receding footsteps.
We all fell back to sleep, waking up twenty minutes before Nina was due to be picked up by Gus, the head of operations for the team.
Both Tom and I had received text messages the day before from Kev, one of the SAR (Search and Rescue) crewmen, letting us know that he’d pick us up at our hotel in the evening and drive us the hour’s journey across to Abu Dhabi. This left the two of us the whole afternoon to explore/
“No question,” stated Nina, an old hand in this part of the world. “You want a cab down to the marina, then catch a dhow over the creek to the gold souk.”
That’s an afternoon full of words that I don’t often use - splendid!
The cabbie dumped us by the side of the creek and we looked up and down the banks for one of these famous dhows. Nothing. Just row upon row of luxury yachts. Mad dogs that we were, the sun was at its highest and we were the only people walking outside, all the locals were sleeping in the shade. Under every tree lay labourers, their hard hats balanced on their noses to block out the sun.
We slathered on the sunscreen, trying to think of the most painful places to get burned (ears, toes, heels) and spreading it thick as butter on the conclusions we came up with.
A little way down the marina we started to spot motorised dhows cruising back and forth across the water.
“Figure we should get the one the locals are catching?”
Sure enough, just around the bend there was an entire water-bus station, three or four pontoons with dhows bumping and pushing to dock, their drivers leaning on horns, pushing their competitors away from the pontoons to get themselves in.
One boatman caught my eye, waved his hand in a circle.
“Tourist trip? Half hour?”
“How much to go across?”
“Tourist trip. One hundred twenty dirham”
“And to go across?”
“One hundred twenty dirham.”
That’s twenty four quid to you and I. That’s a lot of money.
Behind us another dhow was rapidly being filled with locals, the occasional tourist awkwardly stepping way onto the benches, Western health and safety concerns present in their outstretched hands, reaching for barriers and handrails that weren’t there.
The seating arrangements on these vessels are basic, between a dozen and twenty people sit back to back on benches down the spine of the craft, their feet resting on gunwhales, nothing to stop you slipping into the depths but your own lack of stupidity. You wanna stay on the boat? Simple. Don’t fall off.
I approached the second captain, he was too busy packing passengers on to worry about haggling, he waved his hand in my face when I spoke to him, pushing me onto the boat
“How much?”
“One dirham.”
That’s twenty pence, folks.
This didn’t go down well with the first captain, who started yelling at us - “Ok, ok, one dirham, ok? Ok.”
Don’t think so mate, not with an original mark-up like that, we rode with his competitor.
As an aside, it’s unfortunate that the government body responsible for these water buses and the city’s taxis is called the Roads and Transport Authority - I don’t WANT to ride in a taxi with “RTA” written on the side, thanks.
The dhow putt-putted us down and over the river and, on disembarking, we found ourselves on a quay side, plain harled buildings beyond us, claustrophobic vennels vanishing between them. We stopped to ask directions and I was entertained when the stall holder we were talking to referred to me as “boss.”
Allow me to expain. In Edinburgh’s Saughton prison the inmates refer to the screws as “boss”. And like sagging jeans in American prisons, the slang and styles slide outwards as people are released back into society. I’m used to being called “boss” at work, but its usually delivered in the nasal drawl of a smackhead, obsequious and whiningly compliant, hoping I’ll go away and the police won’t follow. “Boss” is a title I’m familiar with on the eighth floor concrete balcony of a highrise, litter and pushchairs jumbled in the stairwells. I wonder if this trader, with his leather sandals and bright cotton shirt would appreciate knowing how close his speech is to the heroin dealers of Wester Hailes?
We wandered into tight, tiny alleyways with stalls pouring out onto the pavement, smiling men in the doorways - “Pashmina? Cashmere? Scarves? Carpets?”
“No thankyou.”
“Just looking?”
“Just looking.”
This was the Dubai I’d been searching for, a city full of real people, going about their daily business. We wandered without destination for hours, turning left now, right then. We found ourselves in some seedy little places, a watch and jewellery shop - “Sir? OmegaTagPatekPhillipeRolex? Very good copies. All real fakes. “
In one store we were ushered into a cupboard under the stairs where the shopkeeper showed us an endless stream of shoeboxes filled with blinging fake watches. He was very proud of his wares and, for some reason, a lurid yellow plastic bunny. He insisted I take a photo of him with it. I did so and we left otherwise empty handed.
As we walked fabric gave way to spices, then gold jewellery and watches and finally knock-off designer labels - “Size how? Colour how? You come see. You like, you buy, you no like, ok, no problem. You like Adidas? Calvin Klein? Dee and Gee?”.
I loved the spice souk; the baskets of turmeric and cinnamon sticks, coriander, both seeds and ground and inside the shop vast buckets of saffron, frankincense and myrrh. Seeing the last two was bizarre, they’re words I know from school but have never seen or smelled them in real life, it was like coming across a gingerbread cottage.
All too soon our trip came to an end and we grabbed a taxi back to the hotel to meet Kev-The-Engineer who ran us to Abu Dhabi.
The event had put us up in the Crowne Plaza for our first night, our desert boots and enormous rucksacks raising eyebrows amongst the other guests, eliciting nothing more than a fully professional “Good evening, sir, ma’am.” from the staff.
The Scotland/England and Wales/Ireland rugby matches gave us a perfect excuse to get pissed together as a team building on old friendships and, in my case, meeting my new workmates; a better ice breaker than some national hatred, I can’t think of. Slightly sozzled and still utterly exhausted, I hit my room at about one in the morning, sneaking over to my twin bed so as not to wake up Rolf, the Swedish anaesthesiologist I was sharing with. I’d met him on our arrival in the lobby and he seemed friendly, yet slightly stern in that Northern Periphery way. Tiptoeing drunkenly around the room, I slumped into bed to prepare for the next day’s work.
